After the relaxing vibe of the Old Bridge Backpackers in Maun, we headed to Okavango with a tentative plan to wild camp* at “Nick’s Secret Camping Spot” outside of Mababe. Following GPS coordinates through an abandoned campsite, we arrived at the river where two dozen hippos and a MASSIVE elephant were splashing around to cool off from the midday heat. Also enjoying the view was a local Bots safari guide and former elephant hunter named Garrick. He had converted to photography after meeting his vegetarian girlfriend Sonya (choose wisely friends!). Garrick confirmed the pool was great for game watching and also mentioned that a pride of lions was known to roam the area. We sort of heard him, and then continued with our day following Garrick for an incredible game drive seeing more elephants than we could count. And not just elephants, we saw SO MANY ANIMALS, the Moremi Game Reserve is incredible and deserves your visit.
As the day waned we decided to overnight at Nick’s Secret Camping Spot. We arrived before sunset and took some awesome pictures of the pool and remaining hippos before setting up the tent. We were starting the stove to cook dinner when we heard the first lion roar. Our best guess had the animal at 1km away. Dinner was postponed until we got the fire started and jet fuel would not have helped start it fast enough. With enough wood to burn down Valhalla, we crouched between the fire and the car and contemplated eating dinner or being dinner. Then another roar, probably 500m away. Surprisingly, we were no longer hungry and jumped in the car, doors locked, windows up. How long is too long to hide inside a car from a pride of lions when you are sweating to death? After 10 minutes, we decided to sleep in the car. After 30 minutes it became clear from the fog on the windows and dampness of our clothes that this was unreasonable. Escape planning ensued. Mind you, darkness has arrived. Our headlamps are only good for 20 meters at best. When a lion attacks, do you really have 20m of their charging time to get safe? I’m not an impala, I don’t jump 3m high at the drop of a hat.
So the plan was this – Ross, was to exit the vehicle and climb the ladder to the rooftop tent. If he made it alive I would consider joining. Otherwise, at least the car would be cooler without him. The good news, Ross made it upstairs. With windows down, I was able to throw him the sleeping bags, pillows and bug spray (why the F$%& we cared about bug spray at this point is irrelevant).
Eventually, mustering the kind of courage the British had marching into Isandlwana, I made a run for the rooftop. Only once I was safely inside the tent and I could hear something besides the pounding of my heart did I hear again the lion(s) roar (yes, plural). And they were now closer. At this point, we did not know we were basically 98% safe in the rooftop tent. So naturally we recorded on my phone a going away message for our mothers while simultaneously cursing ourselves for trying to save 150 pula by not paying for a camping site. Perhaps another day we will post this video. For now, think Blair Witch meets Lion King.
*wild camp American Translation: pitching a tent anywhere as opposed to in an organized campsite
Joburg to Scotland 